Watch Picking
Watch Picking
A regular look at vintage watches in the market that offer that something special.
Our first watch and first ever pick is from the great folks at Craft + Tailored in Los Angeles California. This is a simply stunning 1966 Rolex Explorer 1016 with a Tropical Gilt dial to die for.
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| Photo: Craft + Tailored |
What a watch to have as our first. The 1016 is a classic sports watch with a rich history. It has a purity of design, no date window, no timing bezel to muddy the waters. There is something both rugged and elegant about an Explorer, it's a gentleman in tweed climbing the Matterhorn, stopping at the summit to enjoy a sip of single malt. The Rolex Explorer finds its roots in the Oyster Perpetual tested by Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay on their accent to the summit of Everest (I believe Hillary wore a Smiths at the summit itself) The Explorer found itself on the wrist of Sir Robin Knox-Johnston's first singled handed round the world non stop sail in 1969. Every bit as challenging as the Apollo II flight of the same year. Coming in at 36mm the 1016 wears so well for it's size, for me 36mm and 39mm are the two perfect watch sizes from Rolex, the oyster cases work so well in that size.
This example is in beautiful condition and the ombré tropical dial darkens to a rich chocolate to the right of the dial. The lume on the hands and indices seem to be well matched. It really has given this Rolex such character and I've not seen a more interesting Explorer for a while. Yes there are a fair few tropical 1016s about, but maybe not this unique. This one comes in at $34,000 (£25,769, €28,729) not cheap, but I think this an amazing opportunity to own something that stands head and shoulders above the crowd. You can see more pictures and information at Craft + Tailored ( Link )
Next up, another tool watch. This time from Berlin based Shuck the Oyster. Like Craft + Tailored Shuck the Oyster offer beautifully curated collections for sale, they have a real style to their stock. This pick is a 1964 Omega Seamster 300 Diver 165.024.
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| Photo: Shuck the Oyster |
in 1957 Omega released the Master range of tool watches. All with a task in mind. The Speedmaster for the automobile racer, The Railmaster for the engineer and the Seamaster for the diver. Each sharing a similar case style with distinctive twitted lugs. They are without doubt some of the greatest tool watches ever produced and highly collectable. The Omega Seamster 300 is one of the classic mid century dive watches. With it's 12,3,6,9 Explorer style Matte dial and Sword hands it is much more iconic that most would lead us to believe. It does not need to be a Sub to be an icon of the diving world. The Seamaster 300 really does have such a strong tool watch vibe, it screams Special Boat Service (don't at me about them wearing Mil Subs, it's the vibe I talking about and Seamasters saw service) It has strong masculine lines, but I think wound find a home on any wrist, it's just the impression you want to give.
Shuck the Oyster's Seamaster is a fine example. The case appears unpolished and the dial and hands original with very nice creamy warmth to the lume. It is rare to find the Seamaster 300 in such stunning original condition. Yes it's worn, yes it's lived a life before you. But to me that is its appeal, the stories it could only tell. It would be a wonderful addition to a tool watch collection. It is priced at €8,900 (£7,981, $10,532) Which I feel is a lot of watch for the money and one I'd put on for a walk through the New Forest. You can see more images and dial at Shuck the Oyster (Link)
Now something very different. The Rolex Datejust could easily make the claim to be THE watch. It has such broad appeal and is just so versatile. It is gender free and would not out of place won to meet a president (there is one still hanging on I would probably wear G Shock to meet) or chopping wood. It crosses a line between tool and dress that only the Datejust can do. This example is for sale from the US based Theo and Harris.
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| Photo: Theo and Harris |
The Rolex Datejust was the first automatic date watch from the brand on its1945 release and has seen many versions through the decades. For many this is the quintessential 'nice' watch. Something we grew up with seeing on the wrist of that successful uncle, just catching a glimpse of it as he shakes hands. As I have said it is its versatility that has made the Datejust so popular. It has become an almost everyman statement of achievement and milestones. Rolex has always produced watches that could be your one watch, it is what they do best and the Datejust is the number one of all one watches.
Second only to Tudor, Grand Seiko has seen a meteoric rise. With boutiques opening around the world and seen on the wrists of collectors, Grand Seiko is now a global brand. Producing some of the most exciting watches on the market. From the amazing Spring Drive powered watches to truly beautiful hand wound Calibre 9S63 in the Elegance collection. With this growth of Grand Seiko in the industry there has been much interest in vintage and that's where we go next. On a guest appearance on the Gentleman Pursuits (@gentlemanpursuits) I chose a vintage Grand Seiko in my Vintage Grails picks. Where I went to look was the world class collection from The Grand Seiko Guy (@thegrandseikoguy) and today I've picked something so special for you, a breathe taking 4580-7010.
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| Photo: The Grand Seiko Guy |
There are simply vintage Grand Seiko and vintage Grand Seiko 45GS VFA watches. The VFA (Very Fine Adjustment) watches use a Chronometer standard movement, that runs at run at -2, +2 seconds a day. Which is way up there with Swiss Chronometer certification. But we know the Swiss watch industry, a decision was made that only a Swiss timepiece could be classed as a Chronometer. This feels grossly unfair, but does not stop the Grand Seiko VFA being outstanding in accuracy and build quality, they are truly beautiful watches. From the 1970s the 45GS VFA watches have such interesting cases, just do a search as see how many there are, with their angles and curves they are so original and distinctive. They make me think of a busy Japanese office in the 1970s, smokey and full of hard playing and hard working salary men, maybe tough Tokyo journalists. There is a real romance to them. They are a dress watch, but they feel like they are not just for the desk, they are for that night playing cards or driving your 911 on a windy road.
This Grand Seiko 4580-7010 offered from The Grand Seiko Guy is so, so special. With a stunning angled and unpolished case and a patina to the warm time only dial that is a once in lifetime find. The 4580-7010 is such a rare watch and to find one with this look is another level. It is this rarity that makes this Price On Application. The price can change day to day with something this special, so that makes sense. This Grand Seiko was manufactured in the Daini factory and uses the VFA 4580 movement. Check out Hi Res images and more details on The Grand Seiko Guy website (Link)
Last and most definitely not least is a mind blowing Tudor chronograph. This time I'm sharing something from a seller closer to home (well to me) East London's Subdial, something that will make your blood pump, a Tudor Monte Carlo 7031/0 chronograph.
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| Photo: Subdial |
2013 saw the rebirth of Tudor as a brand, a brand taking centre stage. In that year Tudor hit Basal World with the Tudor Heritage Chrono Blue. A watch that has was a gateway to Tudor to becoming a fans favourite in the collecting world. The release of the vintage inspired Heritage and Black Bay lines have opened collectors up to vintage models, many companions to their Rolex cousins. But the Tudor chronographs were something different. 1970 saw the Tudor Oysterdate 7031/0 hit the market and it did it in style. You can smell the Old Spice, hear the revs of the Capri as it appear out of the cloud of your John Player Special smoke. This watch is like a red wine reduction of 70's cool, it is the essence.
The Tudor chronograph here is powered by the reliable hand wound Valjoux 7734 movement, with it's date at 6 o'Clock. The Valjoux has a 45min chronograph counter, sometimes nicknamed the soccer timer, as if it could be any more sporty. The dials of the 1970s Chronograph are so of their time, but still look exciting and fresh, they're a bold statement. Incased in a 40mm Oyster case and with screw down pushers if offers something more on the nose than a Daytona, but every bit as exciting.
Subdial have an amazing offering in this Tudor Monto Carlo 7031/0. The dial is still rich with colour and detail and the case looks very good to me. It has a later Oyster bracket, but one perfectly fitting for the era. I'm not sure watches come any cooler and this example would lift any collection. Subdial have this Tudor for £34,000 (€37,884, $44,849) and I doubt it will be about for long. See more at Subdial (Link)
All the watches are for sale at the time of writing and all images are from the sellers website. Click on the links to find out more on these watch picks.
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