Our second look at the vintage watch market and I really want to do something different. I want to stay close to home (the UK) and look at the small independent dealers. In these times if I can help in my tiny way to spread the word on these dealers I will. All of them have wonderfully curated pieces, they have a theme to their stock. They say 'Buy the Seller' and I could not agree more with this and these dealers are worth buying.
First up something from a great brand, Zenith (I'm wearing my vintage Zenith Defy as I write this) A MK1 Zenith S.58. Zenith's late 50s tool watch. In some ways this is Zenith's answer to the Rolex Submariner and the Blancpain Fifty Fathoms. But I feel it's closer to the Explorer or even the Enicar Seapearl 600 both being bezel-less adventure tool watches. This is a something that Zenith carried through into the later Defy.
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| My Zenith Defy. |
This model is sold through Vintage Watch Specialist and it is in great honest condition, with what looks like an unpolished case and the black dial look fantastic, the hands and indices have taken on a rich patina. It really is a great example. The simplicity of the Explorer dial on the S.58 is a look I'm really drawn towards, there's an understated feeling, the Zenith is not something obvious, it is a collectors watch, in the sausage party of the watch meet up (oh, the good old days) when everyone is downing their Negroni with their Subs on, you can sit feeling special wearing the S.58 and drinking a pint of Guinness.
Coming in at a 36mm the S.58 stats don't do justice to how well it wears, like the Rolex Explorer 36mm works so well for a no bezel tool watch, it is almost perfect. It is a tool watch you can wear with all most anything.
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| Photo: Vintage Watch Specialist |
This under the radar classic is being offered at £9,750 (€10,698 $13,023) on the Vintage Watch Specialist (LINK) site. VWS is seller that has an emphasis on vintage military watches, with some classics, including Dirty Dozen and W10s aplenty.
Second out something completely different from my normal fair. While I have a thing for tool watches, I always feel you need something dressy and classic in your collection. There are times when you just need that little bit of class and what can possibly have more class than a Patek Philippe in gold? Nothing, fact (I'm not sitting on the fence here) It is the essence of luxury and that is what makes Patek so special.
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| Photo: Subdial |
This 2484 Calatrava is double signed Hausmann & Co the historic Roman jewelleries, which opened its first store in the eternal city in 1890. I don't think there anything that signals elegance more then a Calatrava, they have everything a timepiece needs and nothing more, no timing bezel, no complications. These things are vulgar in the face of a 2484. At 32mm it can slip under the sleeve of the gentleman or gentlewoman, because this Patek is truly genderless, anyone (and everyone) that what's to feel special could wear it. An evening drinking cocktails in a hotel bar before heading to the opera, we all do it now and then.
You can own this little piece of luxury for £7,500 (€8,235 $10,009) from London based (and previous Watch Picking alumni) Sub Dial (LINK) who are one of my favourites when web window shopping.
Back on familiar ground ground with a military watch now, a 1945 issued chronograph. Issued watches to me offer the biggest value in the watch collecting world, where else can you buy such history, a story, every scratch is a word in a book. They sometimes are the simplest watches, they have purpose, true tools. The watch on offer here is a 1945 Lemania HS9 Monopusher.
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| Photo: Kibble Watches |
The HS9 was an issued for Hydrographic Survey. A Royal Navy Air Fleet duty to map the water ways and harbours of Great Britain. Which was clearly of up most importance, you can't defend your own nation without knowing it's geography. The HS9 is a 30 minute monopusher which has taken on a rich patina to the sterile dial, the blued steel hands have lost their lume, but I actually feel they're better for it, they really are part of the watches story. Coming in at a very wearable 38mm and fixed spring bars the Lemania would look great paired with a white tee and military chinos, why it's so pure you could even wear it with a suit. Under the Broad Arrow and designated Case Back is a hand wound Lemania Cal. 15 CHT. Lemania have such a rich history of movement manufacture, they even developed the legendary Omega 321.
This stunner is being offered by London based Kibble Watches for what I think is practically a steal at £2,900 (€3,193 $3,892) Just as I said, military watches are underpriced still, they are the sleeping dogs of the collecting world, you can get in early here (LINK) and check out the other amazing pieces at Kibble Watches.
I'm nothing if I'm not predictable, this is where you call me a stuck record. But how could I produce a post on vintage watches being sold in Britain without a Broad Arrow dialed timepiece?
The Broad Arrow has such an amazing history. The earliest known use was in 1383, as a mark for royal wine. It would later become the symbol for property of the Board of Ordnance and the King's Navy, then the Minister of Defence (MOD) and would find itself marking everything from prison uniforms to trees in America marked for use in British Navy ships before the revolution. Do spend a bit of time reading up on it, it's fascinating.
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| Photo: Finest - Hour |
To make things more interesting we have Thin Arrow and Fat Arrow used at different points on this watch. The Thin Arrow redialed because of radiation levels to a Fat Arrow. What we have here is a RAF Radium dialled Pilots watch from 1953. As most were redialed this is rare piece and looks to me to be in wonderful condition. Marked with the Broad Arrow (in this case, the Thin version) on the dial and case back, the correct unmarked crown and stunning dial. Inside the 37mm case beats a hand wound 283 Calibre from Omega. What a piece of history, These to me are as wearable as an IWC mark anyway, they have yet to reach their collecting potential.
This Omega is offered from Finest Hour who unsurprisingly specialise in vintage military watches. The '53 is offered for £7,950 (€8,757 $10,671) which for something of this quality and I think not far from being as cool as a Mil Spec Sub (don't @ me, the Omega is amazing) is a lot of watch for the money. Have a look (LINK) and while you're there have a look around the site, it has some great pieces and a great reference.
Well folks that's my last post before Christmas and the end of what has been a very strange year. Look after yourselves, stay safe and have a great Christmas.
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