Moon Shot: Omega release a new Moonwatch with a new movement.

 Moon Shot 

Photo: Omega 

So much has been written about Omega's relationship to NASA and the moon landings of the late 60s, early 70s that it is true lore of the watch world. Ever since Wally Schirra wore an Omega Speedmaster Ref 2998 during his Mercury flight the Speedmaster has been a space watch with all the excitement and glamour that brings. In 1969 the Omega Speedmaster Professional (as it had become) became the Moonwatch when Buzz Aldrin stepped onto the Lunar surface (Neil Armstrong left his Speedy on the LEM as a back up) it had now reached legendary status. 

Since NASAs last visit to the Moon in 1972 with Apollo 17 there has been many Speedmaster references and countless Limited Editions. Many sold under the banner 'Moonwatch'. Now the farther we get away from the Apollo programme and the more versions that appear I begin to wonder if we start to dilute what it is to be a Moonwatch. It becomes just a simple nickname and not a real tool, not the real deal. There is so much romance around the name I find this a shame. Maybe some might say Omega are 'milking' it, I would never say such a thing..........

Now the fellas over at Hodinkee say everyone should have a Speedmaster in their collection and who am I to argue with the Dink. The Speedmaster is a classic, to me every bit as interesting as a Daytona or Carrera, just as much history. The Speedmaster was never designed as space watch, it is a timer for the motor racer. First released in 1957 as part of a classic collection from Omega, the Seamster for the Diver, The Railmaster for the Engineer and the Speedmaster for the Racer. It is to the quality of the construction of the Speedmaster that it found itself selected as watch for manned NASA space flight, the harshest of all environments. With the driving and space travel heritage the Omega Speedmaster is one of the most iconic watches not only on the market, but in history. I mean what could be a better two watch collection than a Rolex Submariner and a Omega Speedmaster ? (answers on a post card please) 

Old V New Photo: Omega

So this leads us to why we are here today. On the 5th of January Omega did something special, they refreshed the Omega Speedmaster Professional collection. A new movement, a new case and dial. Plus a whole host of new details. The classic Speedy Pro is a kind of bitter sweet part of the Omega collection. How do you make a watch that was flight qualified for manned missions in the 1960s a modern watch for a new generation of buyers? This the question I feel Omega have been trying to answer for years. Many of watches in their catalogue have Co-Axial Master Chronometer movements, movements that are way ahead of many in the luxury watch arena. Rolex have been running to catch up (the new Subs answer that and I guess their new movements will migrate into other ranges) Well Omega did just that, they upgraded the Moonwatch. 

Photo: Omega

The new Omega Speedmaster Professional comes in four new version all using the new 3861 Co-Axial Master Chronometer. A handwound movement running at 21,600 vph with 50 hours of power reserve and antimagnetic to an amazing 15,000 Gauss. This is big step and a big departure from the1861 movement that Speedmasters have used for 50 years. The four version on offer are two stainless steel ones, one with a Hesalite crystal, one with Sapphire and an open caseback and two precious metal versions, a Sedna Gold and Canopus White Gold model. The new movement is not the only one change to the Speedmaster that Omega have introduced. We have several nods to past models. A new stepped dial, a new case, changed chronograph seconds hand, the legendary dot over 90, an applied logo for the Sapphire version and a brand new bracelet. The dial and the bracelet are the more obvious updates. The stepped dial has a change to the shape of the type and the outer track has lost its smaller markers, for me I prefer the older markers, it keeps that racing timer feel to the watch, but the stepped dial I love the look of, it seems to give the dial real depth. The bracelet with 5 smaller links looks really tooly to me, which is a good thing on a Speedmaster Professional. 

Photo: Omega 

Do I like the new Speedmaster? Yes I do, very much, it feels like a modern classic. The issue I have and have already mentioned, it is not really a Moonwatch. We are now so far from the original that it has become a bit of a gimmick, something that Omega have until now managed to stay the right side of. Sure a Speedmaster went to the moon, but not this one. I'm sure this model hasn't even been to space, that could happen, in fact I'm sure it will at some point. But the Moonwatch moniker is being stretched to snap point by Omega. Nicknames are common in the watch world, Hulk, Nina Rindt and President for example. But the difference is the brands don't use them. Yes Seiko have started using 'Turtle' and 'Arnie' but these aren't claims of provenance, they are terms of affection. Will the new Speedmaster sell well? Absolutely, it looks great and there is nothing like it at that price point, it simply is an amazing chronograph. The best handwound chronograph just got better. Will the buying public care about the distance from the Moonwatch, absolutely not, a Moonwatch is a Moonwatch. 

The Omega Speedmaster Professional Hesalite £5,370 Sapphire £6,120 Sedna Gold £29,840 Canopus White Gold £38,830   Omega Website  

Photo: Omega